County Clare

This past weekend we ventured to County Clare, sort of the middle of the west coast of Ireland. None of us have been here before, save David stopping at Shannon airport with the USAF on his way to Afghanistan in 2009. Susanne is here this month so a good excuse to go exploring (not that we need one, really).

On Saturday the weather was gorgeous so we headed straight to the Cliffs of Moher. The weather here is known for being terrible - sideways rain, wind, and fog predominate. We got incredibly lucky and I could barely stop smiling. David had manage to book the Airbnb cottage closest to the cliffs, called “Clair’s cottage” (not to be confused with “County Clare”).

Clair’s cottage was built in the late 18th century but thankfully had been updated very sweetly - the walls were almost 2 feet thick, there was cool exposed stone and beams throughout. The host had left out a dog bed and treats, milk in the fridge, and was very welcoming. We were surrounded by beef and dairy cattle (so many spring calves!), two donkeys lived next door, a couple sweet dogs lived on the property and greeted us, and oh the view! Absolutely gorgeous.

We dropped our stuff at the cottage and walked to the Cliffs, which were just up the hill. On a day like we had, they were just stunning. The wind was still pretty stiff (Sally and I each almost lost our hats several times) but just the right temp. I can only imagine how imposing (and very different) it would all seem if it were foggy with driving rain.

That night we had a great dinner at the Doolin Inn but we head to bed too early to have caught any of the “trad music” that area is so well-known for. Next time. We DID catch the gorgeous sunset, though!

On Sunday we enjoyed the beautiful morning and then headed off on a drive of the Wild Atlantic Way (sort of like Pacific Coast highway). Just a few miles north of the Cliffs we drove into the crazy landscape of the Burren. Unless rocks and volcanic tundra running down to the ocean. I had absolutely no idea that topography/geography existed in Ireland.

From there we headed to Burren National Park. Again, delighted by the fact that a national park here is just an open place you can go to (no visitor’s center, lines, or fees). There was a random lovely gentleman in a yellow high-vis vest at the trailhead offering suggestions so we did a nice short walk/hike that allowed us to admire some cows (belted Galloway, nonetheless), spring wildflowers, and the views while Sally climbed up and down every rock available (and many were).

Finally we stopped for lunch in the unfortunately named town of “Gort” (apparently means “field” in Gaelic) and then checked out Kilmacduagh Abbey, which was gorgeous because of the grassy fields and lovely cattle, but otherwise rather underwhelming (you couldn’t go inside!). Perhaps I should have taken a hint from the 5-star google review that complemented the easy parking. ;)