Wales July 2026
On a Sunday in late July we took the ferry from Dublin (just 15 minutes from our house!) to Wales, where we met up with Ed, Julia, Jack, and Doc near Eryri National Park (formerly Snowdownia). To start with, the ferry was amazing…I love anything water-related, and then getting to see Dublin Port and the bay from the ferry - priceless! Plus, Riley and Bob were able to come along. I was worried they would be somewhat scarred by the kennels aboard the ship (Bob, with his puppy inclinations and teeth, is not yet trustworthy to stay in the car for the crossing) but they seemed fine when we checked on them (only twice, because it required an “escort”) and no worse for wear upon arrival.
After leaving the ferry terminal, we happened upon the town with the longest name in Wales an dit’s station sign: Llanfairpwllgwyngyllgogerychwyrndrobwllllantysiliogogogoch. This was only the beginning of my fascination with Welsh (which, unlike Irish near Dublin, I heard people speaking everywhere we went). We arrived a bit early to check into our Airbnb, so we drove to an overlook in the park that David had visited about 30 years ago. At that time, he’d taken a photo that has lived, framed, in our home for as long as we’ve been together. Only a few years ago, someone online helped him home in on the exact spot. It was an absolutely gorgeous day and I was truly stunned at home beautiful the region is. We also saw countless rock-climbers and people bouldering along our way. I hadn’t previously realized Wales, and Eryri NP in particular, is such an outdoor haven!
After arrival at our very cool, renovated chapel home, we walked the 100 m down the road to the pub and enjoyed a very local experience/meal. We watched the beautiful sunset over the cow pasture from our living room/yard (instead of “fjord-watching” like we had in Norway, here we “cow-appreciated”).
On Monday I tried to tire Bob out with a run and then we all headed off to the coast to check out Llanddwyn Lighthouse.
It was another beautiful day so there were many people there to enjoy it (though still not crowded!) and we had a very nice walk through the woods, along a gorgeous beach, and to the iconic lighthouse.
In the afternoon, we headed to the lake near our house, Llyn Padarn, and put the paddle board to use. The water was so much warmer than anything we’re used to (Irish Sea, fjords of the North Sea) so it was a delight. Then the kids and Ed walked to Dolbadarn Castle (in life jackets and swim suits!) while Julia and I enjoyed the lake.
On Tuesday we took the Snowden Railway up to the top of Mount Snowden, the highest point in Wales (and just slightly higher than the highest point in Ireland). The train ride was really fun—think the train from Daniel Tiger meets Thomas—and as we ascended through the clouds we were rewarded with sunshine and stunning 360-degree views of the Wales and the Irish Sea. After some photos, we headed the 4.5 miles down. It was slow going at first with loose rock, but so fun as we descended through the clouds then back into sunshine, passing sheep and ruins and listening to the kids (and ourselves!) chatter away.
On Wednesday, Sally, Julia, the boys, and I went to paint pottery at Piggery Pottery, less than a 10-minute walk from our house. Sally was beyond thrilled and it was a very relaxing, pleasant time. In the afternoon, we headed to Zipworld Fforest in Betwys-coed to partake in the Fforest coaster. We’d all recently zip lined so weren’t totally feeling doing that, and the coaster was a nice alternative. Note to self: next time we go to Wales, check out Betwys-coed more - what a cute-looking town! It was so gorgeous out that when we got back, Sally and I took the dogs to the lake for a quick swim before dinner. Bob did fully swim once (to Sally), but then wasn’t sure after that. We’ll try again next time!
On Thursday morning I went on a lovely local with the Florack family before they headed home. In the afternoon David, Sally, the dogs, and I checked out Dolbadarn Castle together, then walked up to Llanbaris falls (Ceunant Mawr) before enjoying a nice lunch together (Bob’s first meal out!) at the cute, dog-friendly Lone Tree Cafe by the lake. In the late afternoon, Sally and I again headed to the lake (sans dogs, this time) and had a very pleasant paddle up the creek a bit followed by a nice swim.
This was such a lovely trip. Great company, chill vibe, absolutely beautiful, and every spare moment in the yard or by the window, sky- and cow-appreciating. The ferry home was equally delightful (nicer for the dogs because we could access them ourselves so they plenty of time on deck) and Stena Ferries gets the win for customer service after an initial mix-up in our boarding timing.
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