This year for spring break we headed out west to the Dingle Peninsula, inspired by a bike ride David signed up for but bolstered by the numerous people who’d suggested we check out this part of the island. Dingle did not disappoint. This is a breathtaking part of the country and my words will not even begin to describe its natural beauty. But that won’t stop me from giving it a college try.
We drove across the country through rather dreary rain and arrived late afternoon on the 12th. We were about an hour early for check-in at the Airbnb house in Annascaul, so we first stopped at long-abandoned Minard castle, just 10 minutes from the house. It was so windy that it was difficult to remain upright while taking in the sea views from the rocks, but the wind had pushed away the rain so the sparkling ocean and crisp pastureland running up to its sand beach was in full welcoming glory. We stretched our legs and lungs and then went to check in to the house, as David needed the wifi for a work call. The house was incredible - historic but recently beautifully (and clearly lovingly) redone by the owner; and perfectly appointed. After settling in, Sally set up for some art time and I headed out for a walk and was charmed by the adorable lambs leaping and playing, the flowering trees, and the rushing creeks and streams. I came back in just as it started hailing again.
That evening, we walked down to the South Pole Inn (a mere hundred meters or so from the house), past the statue of Tom Crean. Tom Crean was an Antarctic explorer from Annascaul, of whom they are very proud. The pub was packed and they warmly invited us in for a pint and a snack. They even have locally produced beer named after Tom Crean. The pub features not only dozens of photos and relics from the various trips to Antartica, but a kitschy but difficult-to-resist “window to the south pole” that you open and it looks like you’re looking at the south pole (swirly foam snow) and the pub fills with the noise of icy wind until you close the window.
The following morning we set off to do the 55-km Slea Head drive (touted as a smaller version of the Ring of Kerry). We pulled off countless times for photos. The weather was perfect - occasional drops of rain, beautiful clouds, less wind than upon our arrival, and a lot of sun. The snow on the tops of the distant mountains of the Kerry Peninsula sparkled, and the Skelligs (including famed Skellig Michael) and Great Blaskett Islands beckoned from the Atlantic.
We stopped off at Cashel Murphy—an ancient Celtic settlement (beehive huts!) with an underground “souterrain” that leads to an underground stone building where they stored food and hid from enemies. The man who owns the land is actually a goldsmith in town, but happens to maintain this historic settlement on his property and enjoys telling people about it. We were allowed to climb into the souterrain (a tight squeeze, to say the least) and marveled at its construction. Similar to the passage tomb at New Grange, at the summer and winter solstice the sunlight enters it just at the correct angle and lights up its inner chamber.
We also enjoyed a walk up Dunmore Head to stand at the western tip of Europe. With sweeping views back along the peninsula’s mountains, pastures, ancient stone walls, and endless sheep, its splendor was overwhelming.
From there we drove to Gallarus Oratory, a stone building that looks like an upside-down ship, which was built between the seventh and eighth century and is famed as the best preserved early Christian church in Ireland. From here we went up over Conor Pass and admired mist-shrouded Mount Brandon (second highest in Ireland) and again astonishingly beautiful views to the ocean to the north and south.
Finally, David had some afternoon work calls so Sally, Riley, and I went back to Minard castle beach to play with rocks - we jumped across them (a favorite activity of both Sally’s and mine, though less-so Riley’s), threw them (no one else was there except a family body surfing a very safe distance away), admired them (so many different colors!), and balanced them (thank you to Maya from our Salmon River rafting trip for teaching us this meditative art).
That evening, we enjoyed a divine dinner at the Michelin-starred Chart House, who even made a perfect fancy yet relatively kid-friendly vegetarian meal for Sally.
On Friday I started the day (well, after some work but that rarely merits mention in these posts) with a nice run up Church Ave. I seem to have found the only straight road on the peninsula, and from the breast of the hill you could see it running across the countryside for miles. Along with the [yes, you guessed it] insane views, we encountered brazen sheep on the road (Riley was scared of them) and a many millennia-years old Standing Stone of unknown significance. We then enjoyed a family breakfast in Annascaul at Aido’s Cafe and Pottery. Aidan the proprietor was so friendly, delighted to have Riley along, to talk bikes, and to bring Sally coloring supplies and a coloring sheet (which he photographed saved at the end!).
We then drove back out the peninsula to Dingle Sheep Dog Demonstration. The farmer told us about sheep farming and showed off the skills of two of his dogs. He definitely had the gift of the blarney and it was good craic. They let us hold a lamb at the end, and then they maintain famine huts you can tour. These were a good reminder of how fortunate we are now, and how much people went through not very long ago on this island (about 1 million people died during the Great Famine).
Friday afternoon we did a self-guided walking tour of Dingle town, had a pub lunch outdoors, and Sally enjoyed some playground time. While this region is known for its trad music, most of it happens after our bedtime, so that’ll need to happen on a future trip. In the afternoon Sally, Riley, and I went to explore Inch beach, which was very close to our house. We walked, played, watched a rainstorm move across the Kerry Peninsula, and marveled at the people swimming and surfing (at least the surfers had wet suits on!). I put my toes in for about 20 seconds and thought I might lose them to frostbite.
On Saturday David very successfully completed (he finished first!) the Dingle 55-km ride around Slea Head, and then cycled back to Annascaul in the rain. Sally, Riley, and I enjoyed the Annascaul River Walk towards a small Fairy forest. It was muddy but pleasant and barely rained on us. The rain eased our departure as we headed back east with full hearts.
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