We wanted to make sure Susanne got to enjoy some other parts of Europe so we headed off to Provence for a weekend. We flew in and out of Marseille but stayed the majority of our time in Aix-en-Provence. This small town is just a bit northwest of Marseille and has a very laid-back atmosphere. Cézanne spent the final 4 years of his life here (died of pleurisy after getting caught out in a storm) and nearby Arles is famous for the time Van Gogh spent there. Upon arrival it’s immediately clear why the painters flocked to this region. The bright blue sky, puffy heterogenous clouds, and gorgeous yellow buildings with colorful shutters and red tile roofs just beg to be captured (on film, in paint).
Our trip happened to fall on a holiday weekend (May 1 is May Day) so museum time was unfortunately limited. That said, it also mean the town was nice and quiet on Sunday, which was a hidden bonus. We strolled the streets and ate well. We stumbled across a used book sale. We hit the pool. We took lots of photos. We got a little sunburnt (well, my neck).
On Monday we checked out Cézanne’s art studio (atelier) where they proudly still have a paint-covered smock (!) and explored the town a bit more.
After lunch, the girls (Susanne, Sally and I) headed to Marseille. Such a shock to the senses after laid-back Aix! The water and Old Port area are beautiful with endless yachts and sparkling Mediterranean, but incredibly crowded and touristy. It was fun to walk along and gawk at everything…for about half an hour. Then I was over it!
We walked up the [impressive] hill to check out Basilique Notre Dame de la Garde, a beautiful cathedral with incredible views, and even had a drawbridge. The inside was all decorated with a boat theme - dangling from the ceilings, paintings, mosaics, you name it. Quite a treat.
Finally, we explored Le Panier, a colorful neighborhood just adjacent to the Old Port with narrow/hilly streets. We finished up at Cathédrale la Major, but our youngest member of the party had tired significantly (that long hike up to the basilica!) so we only appreciated it from outside while awaiting our Uber back to Aix.
We made the most of our last morning before heading home, as we had exactly 1 hour to enjoy the museums between when they opened and when we had to head to the airport. We chose Musée Granet, a very understated museum with an incredible collection of art. Cézanne, Van Gogh, Gauguin, Klee, Mondrian, the list of painters you’ve heard of and enjoy goes on and on. Sally and I also enjoyed the enormous open-air market on the Cours de Mirabeau (the main walking street in the town).
Last, but definitely not least, we had the the most incredible meals while we were here. I say with some reluctance that I recall eating lots of fries and cheese omelettes when in France due to my vegetarianism. I love those foods, nothing wrong with them, but certainly not showcasing the famous French cuisine we all hear so much about. Not this time! David booked truly life-changing meals for 2 nights and the third night we thought we were taking one for the team to enjoy sitting out on the Rotonde and yet the food was also delicious!!
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